CONFIDENTIAL: FOR YOUR EYES ONLY

Last updated: 7/7/25

BASE LAYER (Blowout):
Northstar Turbo Amethyst
OR
Northstar Galaxy Sparkle Black
Sleeved twice in Simax Clear Tubing

WORKING NOTES: 
The newer Turbo Amethyst version is much more pleasant to work that the OG version with furnace-pulled Jet Black. Even the newer NS Galaxy moves nicely, it's def stiffer than the Amethyst, but the extra clear really helps it move freely, as well as provides the slightest amount of transparency, which also helps during complex construction and assembly. 

The extra clear sleeving both helps protect the fume (you can't mess it up, in fact it only gets nicer the more it's in the flame & kiln) and it also stabilizes the tubing and makes it more forgiving for multiple reheats. You can stick prep in the kiln from room temperature (for really thick prep, or during the colder months, it's recommended that you preheat on top of the kiln for 5-10min before throwing it a kiln that's at temp). As far as finished thickness, you can work it as thick or thin as your comfort level permits, it really looks great both ways. I tend to leave the prep on the thicker side, so that you can blast it one or two more times before forming it into your desired shape and thickness. 

BUBBLES:
I really try to get most of them out before you ever see the tubing, however sometimes I do miss them, or if it's in tubing that I anticipate will be broken down such as FILLER tubing (see below). If you do spot one, it's always best to get them out early as possible. If it's close to the surface, a direct and aggressive heating with a Smith Torch flame directly into the bubble, and then slightly moving the glass side to side over the bubble, will usually expand the bubble and pop itself.

Sometimes you may have to use a tungsten to get deep into the glass, but if that's the scenario, I will usually stop, heat that area and blow it thin so that the bubble comes closer to the surface, and then attack it with the mini torch flame. Once it's popped, you'll want to use the mini torch in a circular motion to move the glass around the hole down into the divot that's formed, and once it's closed up, take some 4mm rod, taper the point, and grab the patch of overworked glass in that spot, and pull a long stringer out of it. The nasty overworked glass will come out as a lump followed by clean newer glass, and then I just terminate it nicely, and re-work the prep so that it's even. You really don't want to do this after the piece has been shaped, so that's why it's super important to get them before you're in the final assembly stages.

TYPES OF INTERGALACTIC TUBING:
Filler tubing is usually just fume and frit, it never includes murrine, and lacks all of the smaller details like the spiraling galaxies and shooting stars, mostly because it's tubing that tends to get stretched down or flared out, and the less I can do to make it wonky, the better it is for you to shape later. I tend to fume filler tubing in one of two ways; either lateral bands that run in stripes around the tubing, great to use in  places like bigger cans, feet, incalmo banding, and non-focal uses, OR I fume in stripes long ways running down the length of the tubing, and this is great to use for things like drains, necks, skinny filler, joints. And because it's fumed stripes, it also lends itself will to wigwagging, spiraling and any other line work patterns you can dream up. I highly encourage you to not leave filler tubing straight unless absolutely necessary, and if I'm around in person for collabs, I will almost always do some sorta pattern with filler tubing besides just leaving it straight, even just loosely twisting the ends a bit to give it a touch of style.

IG4.0 Tubing is my most recent edition and most advanced space scenery to date. FULL of murrine and spiraling cane (aka wormies/wormholes). These are the most packed and busy scenes exclusively used for focal sections, like the main can or the focal part of a handle or neck piece. I like to frame these in with incamos when possible, but you can also frame them in with contrasting space tubing like the newer Project: Deep Space tubing (see below).

These IG4.0 sections can tend to be a bit lumpier when you first get them, I really do my best to get them as even as possible before they ship, but I know you have to charge them with heat once or twice more to get them into your preferred thickness, and by then they are usually pretty well evened out.

And a final note for these and any specific marked focal sections, you can always trim them down as needed. Don't feel like you need to use 100% of the scene or tubing that I send you, just trim down equal sides if possible so that the focal part is evenly balanced aesthetically. Don't feel guilty if you have to waste a little space to make the desired outcome a reality. 

Multiverse Tubing is my name for two-sided space tubing. I don't always include this unless I know you have technique that will utilize it, but if you can find a use and want to incorporate it into our piece(s), just say the word and I'll have some on your doorstep asap.

PROJECT: Deep Space Tubing is my newest variation of space tubing, and it's distinguishable bc it's very black and blue, silver-only dust and fume, and no murrine. It's great for filler and incalmo banding, and at the time of this update, I don't really use it for focal sections bc of how plain it is, however if it was covered in external murrine marbles, I wouldn't mind it being used in larger sections.

FINAL THOUGHTS:
Don't stress and have fun! While it's taken me well over 15 years to dial in this tubing, I can breeze through most of it pretty quickly nowadays, so if something goes sideways, or maybe the fume doesn't quite match between what I sent you, or maybe you just need a little more to make something just right...or maybe you need more marbles or murrine slices, please don't hesitate to ask, I'm happy to send more to make the heaterz happen.

You know how to find me!
-N8-